NAPA Know How: How Often Should You Change Your Oil Filter?

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Here’s a question: How often should you change your oil filter? If you’ve ever wondered just what’s in that little round canister called an oil filter, have a look. Those manila-envelope colored pieces you see are the outer edges of material that traps contaminants — things that can clog and damage the working parts of your vehicle’s engine.

If you look in your vehicle’s owner’s manual, you’ll probably see a recommendation that you change your oil at certain intervals based on months and miles, and you may find that the manufacturer recommends you change the filter every other oil change. You might have a relative, neighbor or friend who tells you that they go even longer between oil filters — maybe a year or more. It saves money, they’ll tell you.

It’s a safe bet none of them are mechanics or engine parts manufacturers.

Engine oil does its job best when it’s as pure and clean as possible. Grit, grime, sludge or — this can happen — metallic particles from the inside of your engine — add friction to what is supposed to be lubrication. Friction causes heat, and heat causes premature wear and tear on your engine.

And then there’s the material the oil filter is meant to trap. Bigger pieces can ultimately clog intakes. Think about a blood clot in your body. You could have a stroke, right? Replace your heart with your engine and you’ve got the picture. The longer you go between filter changes, the more contaminants that are already trapped inside the oil filter, the less efficient that filter becomes. It’s like your home furnace filter. If you go too long between changes, your HVAC system begins to strain. The clogged filter is starving it of clean air. It’s the same with your vehicle’s engine and the oil filter.

So, How Often Should You Change Your Oil Filter?

The cheapest insurance for your car’s engine is frequent oil changes — with a new filter at every oil change. That prevents contamination of your new, clean oil from anything that might pass out of your old filter and ensures that new oil is as efficient as it can be in its job of lubricating engine parts, reducing wear and tear, and keeping operating temperatures in a healthy range.

If you’re wondering how often you should change your oil filter, keep things simple by changing your oil filter every time you change your engine oil. Following this schedule might cost you more money, but it will save your engine from possibly getting clogged with grime, sludge or large metallic pieces.

 

NAPA Know How: Know-How Notes: How to Treat Rust With WD-40 Rust Remover Soak

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Ask anyone what the biggest concern about their cars and tools is and the word rust is bound to come up often. Rust is unrelenting and there a hundreds of products on the market to prevent or slow its ever-present march of destruction. The problem is that once it starts, it is difficult to stop.

The most common solution is mechanical removal, which means sanding or grinding it off. This is fine for parts or tools being restored, but things that not so easily repaired such as chrome parts, tools, rare parts, and other items that just have a little rust starting to form. You need a better solution to remove the rust and leave the chrome or paint untouched. Enter WD-40 Rust Remover Soak.

This 100% non-toxic and biodegradable formula eats away the rust, leaving behind clean bare metal, which can then be treated to prevent future rust. It is safe for gaskets, chrome, and painted surfaces, all while being non-flammable and 50-state compliant, making this water-based solution perfect for anyone who faces the epidemic of rust.

When you have rusty tools and parts, their performance is reduced. Pliers stick, and scissors leave rust dust all over upholstery. Time to fix it.

WD-40 Rust Remover SoakUsing WD-40 Rust Remover Soak is easy, you just need to follow a few basic rules to ensure that the product gets the job done quickly and effectively. WD-40 Rust Remover Soak is reusable several times, so don’t worry about wasting the product. Used solution should be kept separate from unused solution, so don’t pour any used solution back into the bottle, simply store any used solution is a separate sealed container for future use. Once the solution becomes dark black, the effectiveness decreases and should be disposed of according to your local guidelines.

Getting Started

Prep the part or tool to be treated by removing any dirty, grease, oil, and loose debris with a detergent or degreaser. WD-40 Rust Remover Soak is most effective on clean metal.

We prepped the tools by taking them apart. The scissors simply unbolted, but the pliers cannot be separated, we just removed the rubber handles.

Fill a container that will hold the part(s) with enough soak to fully submerged it. WD-40 Rust Remover Soak comes in 1-gallon jugs and is available in a four pack. Do not dilute the solution.

The tools were placed in a plastic tray and covered with just enough WD-40 Rust Remover Soak to cover the rusty bits. Then we left it to soak overnight.

Place the item into the soak. How long it needs to be in the solution depends on the amount of rust. Light rust will be removed in as little as 30 minutes, while heavy rust scale can take 24 hours.

The longer you leave the parts in the soak, the darker the liquid becomes. When it is black, the performance decreases.

Once the rust is gone, the part needs to be rinsed and dried off completely. If there is rust remaining on the part, such as inside the pitted areas of heavily rusted items, re-soak and repeat the process.

Each part was removed and cleaned and dried.

 

The pliers are rust-free now. If we don’t protect the bare metal, they will just rust again.

Now that your parts or tools are rust free, you need to protect them. The rusted areas are bare metal, there is nothing to stop the rust from coming back, which can happen overnight. To protect your cleaned parts, spray them with WD-40 Original Formula for flash rust protection, or for long-term protection, use WD-40 Specialist Long-Term Corrosion Inhibitor. For painted parts, you can always simple repair with matching paint.

We used WD-40 Long-Term Rust Inhibitor to seal the metal so that it won’t rust up.

 

This stuff goes on pretty heavy, we wiped it down so that it doesn’t get all over the parts we are working on.

 

We took this opportunity to through a new coat of paint on the vintage Clauss upholstery scissors. Now they are ready to chop up some leather, stain-free

Rust is no fun, and often we just let it slowly eat away at our tools because it so hard to combat. WD-40 Rust Remover Soak is your new best friend in the battle against rust.

Check out all the chemical products available on NAPA Online or trust one of our 16,000 NAPA AutoCare locations for routine maintenance and repairs. For more information on WD-40 Rust Remover Soak, chat with a knowledgeable expert at your local NAPA AUTO PARTS store.

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NAPA Know How: What Are Winter Wiper Blades? A Seasonal Primer

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What are winter wiper blades? You’ve no doubt seen this item lurking on the shelves of your local auto parts store, but a quick inspection doesn’t necessarily reveal the key differences between these wipers and the spring/summer/fall set you’re used to running.

Why would you consider swapping in a different set of wiper blades once the snow starts to fall and the cold weather sets in? Is it really necessary, or merely optional, from a safety standpoint? Let’s take a closer look.

Difference in Design

In order for a wiper to be effective, it has to make strong contact with the windshield or the back glass of your vehicle. During warmer weather, this isn’t much of a challenge, but winter introduces several challenges that must be overcome in the design process.

When asking “what are winter wiper blades,” it’s important to note that there are two different types of wipers available on the market. The most common, and typically least expensive, use a metal frame and a set of springs to force the rubber of the blade against the glass. This mechanism can become clogged with snow, ice or other debris during cold weather driving, which means winter-specific models feature a covering that protects the frame and keeps out unwanted gunk. It’s easy to spot this particular improvement when comparing a summer and a winter blade side-by-side.

“Beam” wipers, however, are a little more inconspicuous. By embedding a metal band inside the blade itself, the wiper keeps its form without the need for a frame, giving them a smaller profile. This rubber material has been fortified with a number of other materials (including silicone, or sometimes Teflon) to keep it supple and bendy in normal operation, and to prevent it from freezing up once the temperatures drop. A stiff wiper is one that can’t maintain the arc needed to clean your glass, and so these designs are a good choice for winter driving, even if you don’t see a “winter” sticker on the label.

Note — you’ll often find this more flexible rubber spec on traditional winter blade designs, too.

Not Like Tires

Winter blades are tougher than the average wiper, but do you really need them? The answer depends entirely on the climate you live in. If you’re constantly dealing with harsh precipitation, road salt and ice, then winter wipers will most likely last longer — especially in the deep cold where summer wipers can freeze to the glass and tear as they move.

Another point to consider is that you can run “winter” wipers all year round, without any real negatives other than the bulky look of the traditional design. If you switch out your old wiper blades to a high-end beam wiper, you won’t even have to deal with that — you can just enjoy 12-month protection from smeared-and-messy windshields without any extra effort.

Check out all the vision and safety parts available on NAPA Online or trust one of our 16,000 NAPA AutoCare locations for routine maintenance and repairs. For more information on windshield wipers, chat with a knowledgeable expert at your local NAPA AUTO PARTS store.

Photo courtesy of Creative Commons.

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NAPA Know How: The Best Car Interior Cleaning Tips

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A few car interior cleaning tips make a huge difference for the time you and your riders spend in the car, while also greatly affecting resale value. You shouldn’t have to deep clean a car’s interior but a few times a year, so when you do, get in there and do it right.

Devils In The Details

Remove all garbage first, clean from the top down and keep a vacuum with multiple attachment options handy. Don’t forget how much of your car moves, slides or folds to reveal more places to clean. Let’s break it down by area.

Windows and Mirrors: Use a putty knife and an adhesive-removing compound to get old stickers off the inside of the windshield. Then use glass cleaner and a microfiber towel to avoid streaks and residue. Spray the cleaner onto the towel to keep the chemicals from running onto the rest of the interior. Some solutions will actually destroy the tint on windows, so check the bottle, and maybe even with the original tint installers, to make sure your spray is safe.

Dash and Console: Vacuum first, then run over large surfaces with a damp microfiber cloth. Apply vinyl protectant to guard against cracking and fading from sun exposure. The console and air vents are obnoxious to clean, but doing so is important. Get what you can with a vacuum, then spray some compressed air on them. Navigate small spaces with cotton swabs in a cloth sprayed with all-purpose cleaner. Do the same for the vinyl door panels.

Seats: Clean up spills ASAP to avoid permanent stains. Next, vacuum again (told you to keep it handy!). If your interior is leather, you’ll want a special cleaning kit that protects the material from fading, cracking and discoloration. Vinyl is super easy to care for with a damp cloth or damp sponge brush to reach crevices. For fabric interiors, you’ll need to use carpet or upholstery cleaner, being careful not to use too much. Leaving surfaces damp for extended periods invites mold and mildew in. To combat this, sprinkle a light layer of baking soda on the seats to vacuum up after 30 to 60 minutes. The powder absorbs both moisture and odor.

Floorboards and Mats: Always shake mats outside first to remove excess dirt, then vacuum again. Clean the mats outside and leave them to dry in the sun. If you have plastic mats use soap and water. Taking care of cloth mats is also pretty straightforward with a bit of carpet cleaner and scrubbing. For any upholstery on the floor, a carpet cleaning machine works wonders. Just remember to keep moisture to a minimum.

Stank: If you’ve accidentally introduced moisture, keep mildew at bay by drying spills immediately and parking somewhere with the windows down on a sunny day. Cleaning or changing the cabin air filter regularly can also remove mystery smells. If you like the scent of coffee, throw a sachet or two of dry grounds completely sealed in a paper filter under the seats.

Most importantly, do no harm. Make sure the chemicals you use are compatible with the surfaces you’re using them on. Having a variety of rags, towels, brushes and vacuum add-ons is a must if you want to clean like a pro. Be patient and detail-oriented, and your interior will look like new in no time.

Check out all the interior products available on NAPA Online or trust one of our 16,000 NAPA AutoCare locations for routine maintenance and repairs. For more information on car interior cleaning tips, chat with a knowledgeable expert at your local NAPA AUTO PARTS store.

Photos courtesy of Blair Lampe.

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NAPA Know How: Do I Need to Warm Up My Car? A Winter Primer

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“Do I need to warm up my car” is a question posed by anyone living in a climate where the mercury often drops well below the freezing point. Whether you’re getting ready to go to work in the morning or heading out to the parking lot after a full day, the prospect of a cold car is uninviting, to say the least and, according to some automotive folklore, potentially damaging to your mechanical components.

Is warming up your car really that important? Are you shortening the life of your vehicle by driving it before the temperature gauge moves at all? The truth might surprise you.

Carburetor Blues

Once upon a time, the question of “do I need to warm up my car” was an important one because each and every automobile made use of a carburetor to mix air and fuel together under the hood. In colder weather, the amount of fuel needed to keep an engine running was much greater than when the snow wasn’t falling. In fact, driving a carbureted car with the choke activated was an unpleasant experience that could actually lead to stalling and potentially fouling your spark plugs — not to mention carbon build-up inside the motor itself.

Modern Cars Are Much Better

Everything changed when fuel injection became the norm for every new car roughly 25 years ago. By using a computer to control the exact amount of fuel being introduced to each cylinder, it was possible for engine management systems to compensate for colder temperatures in real time. This means that cold start conditions pose no significant challenge for modern vehicles, and in fact, most cars and trucks need to be operated normally to warm up quickly — not sit in your driveway idling.

The Verdict

Still, whether you need to warm up your car is a question that continues to be asked even today. The answer, for the vast majority of drivers, is “no.” The only real reason to warm up your car is to get the heating system up to a reasonable temperature to ensure the windows clear and keep you toasty on your journey. Only in the most extreme conditions, where engine oil may have congealed to the point where it’s not providing enough protection to your components, should you prioritize letting your vehicle idle for a few minutes before putting it in “Drive” (-40 F, for example).

Check out all the maintenance parts available on NAPA Online or trust one of our 16,000 NAPA AutoCare locations for routine maintenance and repairs. For more information on keeping your car humming this winter, chat with a knowledgeable expert at your local NAPA AUTO PARTS store.

Photo courtesy of Freeimages

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NAPA Know How: Know-How Notes: All About Plasma Cutting

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Cutting metal is a source of much pain for the DIYers. There are many ways to get the job done, and for most garage hobbyists, getting the job done often turns into a big hassle. As we have discussed before, there are many ways to cut sheet metal, but what about the thicker stuff? Anything larger than 14 gauge is tough to get through with hand tools, and even then you are only going to be able to make straight cuts with most tools. When it comes to the really thick stuff, like 1/8” and 1/4”, you need some heavy cutting power.

In the past, this meant taking the metal to shop and paying someone to cut it or using an oxy-acetylene torch. While the old flame still burns hot in many old-timer’s hands, fewer DIYers have a torch set, and even fewer actually know how to use them safely. It is pretty easy to burn down the house with a torch. Technology over the last 15 years has come to the rescue, however, in the form of plasma.

Just a few years ago, a plasma cutter was still an expensive item for the average professional shop, even more so for a guy in his garage, but these plasma cutters can be picked up at your local NAPA Auto Parts Store. They are not cheap, but well worth the cost if you find yourself needing to cut metal on a regular basis.

Cutting metal is easy with a plasma torch, but there are some safety protocols and tricks you need to know.

Plasma is a electrically charged ionized gas, not unlike the little glowing globes for sale throughout the 1990s at novelty shops. Instead of making pretty little dancing lights, plasma cutters rip through metal like a saw, leaving cleaner edges than gas torches. The process requires electricity and high-pressure gas, typically compressed air. The compressed air is forced through a nozzle, which is electrically charged. When coupled to the work piece through a ground, an arc is generated. This arc ionizes some of the gas, which creates plasma. It is essentially the power of the sun in your hand.

The ground is the most important part of the process. If you don't have a good ground, you will get poor results, not to mention that you can shock yourself pretty bad is you don't have a good ground and the torch head touches the part while you are touching it.

The ground is the most important part of the process. If you don’t have a good ground, you will get poor results, not to mention that you can shock yourself pretty bad is you don’t have a good ground and the torch head touches the part while you are touching it.

A torch slowly heats up the metal to its melting point, at which point the gas pressure from the torch tip blows the molten metal away. A plasma cutter works in a similar process, but it all happens much faster, and the result is a much cleaner cut. The reason the cut is cleaner is because the plasma is super-hot, so it only takes a fraction of a second to cut through the metal, even thick steel. The remaining compressed gas also forces the molten metal away from the cut quicker, leaving less slag (the globs of molten metal), and a cleaner cut. Because you can move much faster with a plasma torch, you put less heat into the metal, so you can make intricate cuts without losing the defining shapes. Many parts you buy are plasma cut on CNC tables, these cuts can be nearly as precise as laser and water jet cutters, but at a fraction of the cost.

Plasma cutters use compressed air to blow the slag away. You don't want to wet air in your plasma torch, so a disposable dryer like this is is a good idea between your hose and the machine.

Plasma cutters use compressed air to blow the slag away. You don’t want to wet air in your plasma torch, so a disposable dryer like this is is a good idea between your hose and the machine.

Hand-held plasma cutting will leave a slightly more jagged edge; this is because you are the one holding the torch. There are some tricks to getting cleaner cuts, but freehand cutting is how most DIYers cuts metal. The beauty of a plasma cutter is that you can cut very thin metal up to several inches thick, depending on the machine. Most hobby-level cutters are limited to 5/8” thick metal, which is suitable for nearly anything you might work on. They also can be used to cut nearly anything that is metal, including steel, stainless steel, and aluminum. You can even use them to cut rusty nuts and bolts just like you would use a gas torch, only much faster and with cleaner results. Remember, safety first! Don’t skimp on the safety, it is important. Treat plasma cutting like welding and gas torch cutting, and you will be OK. Watch out for the pieces that you are cutting off, they are very hot!

Plasma Cutting Tips and Tricks

One of the hardest things to do with a plasma torch is cutting a straight line, especially on a long piece of sheet metal. The trick to this is to use a guide fence. You can buy a fence for plasma cutting, but chances are you already have one or ten lying around the garage – a yard stick. Simply place the yard stick (or 2×4) parallel to the cut line, clamp it down, and press the torch head against the stick as a guide. You need to make sure the center of the cutting tip is over the cut line and that the guide is aligned correctly. This works on new metal as well as on a car body. You can remove a rusted floor pan or quarter panel in minutes with a plasma instead of hours by hand.

A yard stick or straight edge is the perfect tool for cutting clean straight edges. Once you get good at it, your cut can be almost laser straight.

A yard stick or straight edge is the perfect tool for cutting clean straight edges. Once you get good at it, your cut can be almost laser straight.

 

Most of the work done with plasma torches is freehand. Don't be afraid to use your torch on things like sheet metal, it does not warp much at all.

Most of the work done with plasma torches is freehand. Don’t be afraid to use your torch on things like sheet metal, it does not warp much at all.

Cutting circles is a little tougher. You can use a wood ring (it might burn a little, but it won’t burst into flames) or some other guide similar to the above method, or you can use a circle jig. This tool bolts to your torch head and uses magnets or bolts to secure the tool to the workpiece, and then you simply fire up the torch and swing the handle around the center pivot, making a perfect circle. All other shapes are free-hand, unless you choose to make a wood guide, which you can certainly do. With some practice, you can get to the point where you can knock out spot welds by hand without damaging the rest of the panel.

Cutting tubes like this one for a roll cage are easy with a plasma torch. We used a tubing guide to mark the shape we needed to cut.

Cutting tubes like this one for a roll cage are easy with a plasma torch. We used a tubing guide to mark the shape we needed to cut.

 

Then we notched it with the plasma cutter. The rest will get smoothed out with a grinder.

Then we notched it with the plasma cutter. The rest will get smoothed out with a grinder.

Another tip for plasma cutting is to have plenty of consumables on hand. Depending on the brand of cutter you use, you may need more tips. Exposed electrode tips can be destroyed by a single touch to the workpiece. A drag cup protects the electrode from touching the part at all, so your tips last much longer. We have used machines that go through tips in two minutes and machines that can use the same tip for six months of daily use, it varies wildly. The best bet is to do some research on the individual machine you are considering.

Consumables include tips, electrodes, cups, and swirl rings. The most commonly replaced items are the tips and electrodes. Shielded tips can last 6 months or more of regular use, but un-shielded tips like this don't last very long at all.

Consumables include tips, electrodes, cups, and swirl rings. The most commonly replaced items are the tips and electrodes. Shielded tips can last six months or more of regular use, but un-shielded tips like this don’t last very long at all.

Once the cutting is done, you have to clean up the part. No matter how well you cut, there will be slag on the part. Most folks will just grab the grinder and start the tedious process of grinding off the slag, but that is a serious waste of time and effort. Instead, pick up a hammer and chisel. One well-placed knock with the hammer sends chunks of slag flying from your part, leaving a clean edge. The molten metal slag is only lightly stuck in place in most cases. Sure, sometimes you have to really whack chunks of slag, and you will have to use the grinder to clean up the cut edge for shape, but the hammer and chisel method will save you a lot of time.

Slag is the byproduct of plasma cutting. Some people waste hours grinding this off, but a chisel and a hammer will knock it off in one blow. It is not really attached, more like stuck to the base metal. Just chip it off and move on.

Slag is the byproduct of plasma cutting. Some people waste hours grinding this off, but a chisel and a hammer will knock it off in one blow. It is not really attached, more like stuck to the base metal. Just chip it off and move on.

Plasma cutting is the quickest, fastest and most economical way to cut metal. If you find yourself in the need to do so on even a semi-regular basis, you owe it to yourself to look into buying one. You will wonder how you ever lived without it.

Check out all the tools & equipment available on NAPA Online or trust one of our 16,000 NAPA AutoCare locations for routine maintenance and repairs. For more information on plasma cutting, chat with a knowledgeable expert at your local NAPA AUTO PARTS store.

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NAPA Know How: 3 Tips for Buying a Used Car

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Buying a used car is often a purchase that can’t be undone. Only a handful of states have lemon laws, and even those offer limited protection. It’s up to you to fully evaluate the vehicle first.

Worried about getting stuck with a clunker? Use these tips for buying a used car to ensure you bring home the best vehicle you can afford.

1. Do Your Research

Many free resources exist online for consumers buying a car. Take a bit of time to look up information specific to the make, model and year you are considering. Some of the most important things to keep in mind while you search include:

  • Does the asking price match its estimated value?
  • What kind of fuel economy does it have?
  • Has the manufacturer issued any recalls?
  • What are the safety ratings?
  • Are other owners satisfied with the car?

2. Check the Paperwork

A vehicle’s paperwork is the key to understanding its history. Begin with the title, a must-have to prove ownership of the car. Be wary if a seller has lost the title and wants the buyer to be responsible for getting a replacement.

Before you pay for the car, check to see if the title has been branded. When a vehicle is in a major accident, severely flooded or otherwise declared a total loss, many states will permanently mark it on the title. Make sure you fully understand any physical issues the car has experienced and their impact on the vehicle’s value before buying a branded car. If in doubt over any title issues, contact your local Department of Motor Vehicles.

Maintenance records, repair bills and receipts are a bonus when buying a used car, but not a necessity. The exception is for any component covered with a transferable warranty, where a receipt is typically required for any warranty claims.

3. Go Beyond Kicking the Tires

One of the most important tips for buying a used car is to give it a thorough inspection, inside and out. Having a trusted expert at your local NAPA AutoCare Center perform a thorough pre-purchase inspection is usually well worth the cost, but you can give potential purchases a quick once-over yourself to narrow down the choices.

As you look over the vehicle, don’t leave any surface unexamined. Sit in the different seats and test out the power windows and locks. Go through all the functions on the stereo, and the temperature settings. For vehicles with folding or removable seats, try each one out in order to make sure you understand how they work and to see how well they operate. If you use car seats, install them to ensure they fit and can be properly secured.

Look under the hood, even if you have little mechanical experience. Red flags to watch for include excessive dirt and grime; dark staining that may indicate a leak; and belts, hoses or wiring that are frayed or worn. Don’t be tempted to skip a test drive just because your visual inspection checks out. Many issues you may miss in a parking lot, such as clunks, vibrations and rough running, will become evident on the road.

Check out all the maintenance parts available on NAPA Online or trust one of our 16,000 NAPA AutoCare locations for routine maintenance and repairs. For more information on buying a used car, chat with a knowledgeable expert at your local NAPA AUTO PARTS store.

Photo Courtesy of Sarah Shelton.

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