NAPA Know How: Busted! How to Fix Broken Plastic Trim

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Unlike the classic American cars on the 1950s and earlier, modern automobiles are full of plastic. From door panels and dash pads to the engine cover, plastic is everywhere. While this may be an affordable way for today’s auto manufacturers to build cars, the fact remains that plastic simply does not last as long as metal. Eventually, these plastic components fade and crack, leaving you with the task of replacing it or living with busted parts on your car. But you can fix broken plastic trim if you follow a few steps.

The 1960s saw the biggest change over from metal to plastic. As metal became more expensive and plastic forming technology grew, the automakers quickly grabbed onto plastic as the material of the future. Not only is it cheaper to make, plastic components are much lighter and weigh a fraction of what metal counterparts would. By the 1980s, everything on the inside of a car was plastic. Pop the hood on just about any car made from the late 1990s and you will likely find engine components that are made of plastic. General Motors has even been using composite plastic components inside the engine itself. 

There is not much you can do when composite engine components fail, that is usually a replacement item. On the other hand interior and cosmetic components are easily repaired if you take the time to work it out yourself. All you need are a few products that are readily available at any NAPA Auto Parts Store to fix broken plastic trim parts.

Supplies

Items needed to fix broken plastic trim:

JB Weld Plastic Repair, Kwik Weld, or Original epoxy

Masking Tape

Dupli-Color Interior Paint

Dupli-Color Truck Bed Liner Aerosol

Dupli-Color Adhesion Promoter

320-Grit Sandpaper

Wax & Grease Remover

Prepare To Repair

Cleaning the panel with wax and grease remover is the best way to get the part clean without damaging the plastic.

We had a pair of sun-bleached plastic door panels from a 1974 Dodge Challenger that were in need of some restoration. Over time, the sun eats away at plastic and eventually it starts to flake off, much like how steel rusts. In addition to the crusty surface, one corner on each panel had split. These panels are hard to find and expensive. Repairing the panels costs less than $20 and 3 hours (not including cure times).

We used some lint-free shop towels to clean the part. You have to wipe the wax and grease remover on and then wipe it off with a dry cloth.

We used some lint-free shop towels to clean the part. You have to wipe the wax and grease remover on and then wipe it off with a dry cloth. 

The process begins with a quick clean up. The panels were wiped down with wax & grease remover. You can use window cleaner, or even soapy water, you just want them to be clean before you start.

Corners are a high stress area, cracks are common here.

Corners are a high stress area, cracks are common here.

Next, the crack was located and assessed. For this repair, the epoxy will be added to back of the panel, which makes the final finish much easier.

The crack was closed and taped up with masking tape as a backing for the epoxy.

The crack was closed and taped up with masking tape as a backing for the epoxy. 

Using the masking tape, we closed the crack and secured it.

The Fix Is In

JB Weld Quick Weld works great on metal, fiberglass and plastic. It is metered out in the proper ratios with the plunger.

JB Weld Quick Weld works great on metal, fiberglass and plastic. It is metered out in the proper ratios with the plunger.

 

The tube just measures out the material, it has to be mixed by hand.

The tube just measures out the material, it has to be mixed by hand.

Next, we mixed the JB Weld Kwik Weld. You don’t need much, just enough to cover the repair.

Next, the epoxy gets pressed into the split from the back side. This reduces the amount of finish work required on the visible side.

Next, the epoxy gets pressed into the split from the back side. This reduces the amount of finish work required on the visible side.

The epoxy was spread onto the crack, pushing it into the split.he crack was then pushed together and taped again to ensure it would stay closed. The Kwik Weld hardens in 6 minutes, and fully cures in 4 to 6 hours.

After about 15 minutes, we removed the tape exposing the repaired crack. It could be left like this, but there is some texture loss that needs to be addressed.

After about 15 minutes, we removed the tape exposing the repaired crack. It could be left like this, but there is some texture loss that needs to be addressed.

 

The panel was sprayed with a white guide coat before sanding. This helps us see all the damaged areas.

The panel was sprayed with a white guide coat before sanding. This helps us see all the damaged areas.

Finishing

Once the repair was complete, we sanded the panel with the 320-grit sandpaper. Anything more coarse than 320 will leave sanding scratches in the final finish. The goal here is to smooth out the oxidized layer, taking off the chalky plastic, leaving the good layer intact.

In order to remove any loose material on the panel, we sanded it down with 320-grit sandpaper.

In order to remove any loose material on the panel, we sanded it down with 320-grit sandpaper.

 

The sanding action removes some of the grain, though much of it was already gone due to the chalky plastic. We can’t replace the exact grain, but we can get pretty close with spray-on bed liner. Plastic is inherently difficult to paint, so we need to prep it well. First, it is cleaned with the wax & grease remover (you need to use this product for this step).

Plastic is hard to paint, as it is an oil-based product. Adhesion promoter helps soften the material, providing a chemical bond as well as a better mechanical bond for the paint.

Plastic is hard to paint, as it is an oil-based product. Adhesion promoter helps soften the material, providing a chemical bond as well as a better mechanical bond for the paint.

 

Next, we sprayed the panel with Dupli-Color Adhesion Promoter. This slightly softens the plastic, providing a mechanical bond that the paint needs to stick.

Spraying the adhesion promoter is done in two medium coats, with 15 minutes dry time between coats.

Spraying the adhesion promoter is done in two medium coats, with 15 minutes dry time between coats.

 

Adhesion promoter requires two coats with a 15 minute rest between coats, and then a top coat within one hour.

 

Spray-on bed liner works really well for this process. experimenting with different spray distances, angles, and even mixing bed liner and bumper trim paint can yield different results to match grain.

Spray-on bed liner works really well for this process. experimenting with different spray distances, angles, and even mixing bed liner and bumper trim paint can yield different results to match grain.

To recreate the grain, we need a paint that not only is durable, but also formulated for texture. There are many different paints that we could use for texturing. A light grain is best matched with bumper trim paint, but the heavy grain on the Challenger panel needs a larger texture, making the truck bed coating a better match.

 

Several light coats are best when working with bed liner. Too much build up at once will not look right.

Several light coats are best when working with bed liner. Too much build up at once will not look right.

The trick to spraying this stuff is to use several light coats, sprayed from 8 to 15 inches away. The distance gives the paint a chance to dry slightly in the air before hitting the panel. This means the droplets vary in size, the result is a simulated grain that mimics the original grain of the plastic.

 

Here you can see the various droplet sizing and how the grain is recreated.

Here you can see the various droplet sizing and how the grain is recreated.

The bed liner requires a minimum of 3-4 hours of cure time before touching, but you need to wait 24 hours before reinstalling them.

 

All done, the repaired door panel is ready to be re-installed.

All done, the repaired door panel is ready to be re-installed.

You might notice that the panels are black. Bed liner is always black, which while that works out well for black interiors, it might not fit your tan, red or any other colored interior. All is not lost, however. Once cured, the bed liner can be top coated with any paint to match your interior. That is all there is to this simple plastic repair and refinish project. This process is good for door panels, consoles, A-pillar trim, just about any plastic component that needs repair and restoration.

We used the same process on all 4 door/rear seat trim panels so that they would match.

We used the same process on all 4 door/rear seat trim panels so that they would match.

Check out all the paint & body products available on NAPA Online or trust one of our 17,000 NAPA AutoCare locations for routine maintenance and repairs. For more information on how to fix broken plastic trim, chat with a knowledgeable expert at your local NAPA AUTO PARTS store.

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NAPA Know How: Should You Consider LED Interior Lights?NAPA Know How Blog

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A lot of new cars are showing up with LED interior lights instead of incandescent bulbs. Should you upgrade your existing vehicles’ interior lighting?

Retrofitting certain components is a great way to bring an older vehicle into the modern age. And the fewer things you envy in newer vehicles, the less likely you are to give in to that envy and start committing to a new round of car payments. So spiffing up what you already have makes economic sense beyond the upgrade itself.

It’s Up to You!

For some, this is going to be strictly a matter of personal taste and it will come down to that cool yet intense bluish light that LEDs give. If you love the look and just have to have it, good news! It’s an easy upgrade. If you prefer the warmer, more yellowish light from incandescent bulbs, also good news! You don’t have to change.

That leaves you — on the fence. You could go either way. You don’t hate either type. You don’t love either type. You’re practical. In fact, you’d like some facts to back up all of this emotion.

Again, good news! We just happen to have some.

LEDs vs. Incandescent Bulbs

The biggest advantage of LED interior lights is a long life. Some studies show LEDs last as much as 25 times longer than incandescent bulbs. It’s a myth that they don’t dim over time as incandescent bulbs do, but that happens a lot further down the road — we’re measuring that in decades.

Since we’re talking about the long term here, this is a good time to note that, yes, LEDs cost more than incandescent bulbs do. But remember — they last up to 25 times longer. Especially if you plan on keeping your car for a long time, LEDs are less expensive in the long run.

Compared to other types of bulbs, LEDs are efficient. As much as 90% of the energy an incandescent bulb uses is wasted as heat. The vast majority of the energy fed into an LED produces just one thing — light. That’s because, in an LED, electrons flow to create photons and very little heat is generated by photons.

And LEDs are configurable. Don’t like that bright, bluish light? The very nature of LEDs makes it possible to change the type of light they emit. So you can buy LEDs that will reproduce the warmer light you’re used to from incandescent bulbs, if that’s what you want — or a virtually limitless range of colors and intensities (which can be great for accent and ambient lighting in your car).

A Modern Touch

If it sounds like the facts stack up in favor of LEDs, it helps to remember that the incandescent bulb is a 140-year-old technology. It took a while to top it, but LEDs have. Changing out your old incandescent courtesy bulb for an LED one will go a long way to not only making things brighter on the inside, but also giving your old car a modern feel.

Check out all the electrical system products available on NAPA Online or trust one of our 17,000 NAPA AutoCare locations for routine maintenance and repairs. For more information on LED interior lights, chat with a knowledgeable expert at your local NAPA AUTO PARTS store.

Photo courtesy of Wikimedia Commons.

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NAPA Know How: The Best Car Interior Cleaning Tips

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A few car interior cleaning tips make a huge difference for the time you and your riders spend in the car, while also greatly affecting resale value. You shouldn’t have to deep clean a car’s interior but a few times a year, so when you do, get in there and do it right.

Devils In The Details

Remove all garbage first, clean from the top down and keep a vacuum with multiple attachment options handy. Don’t forget how much of your car moves, slides or folds to reveal more places to clean. Let’s break it down by area.

Windows and Mirrors: Use a putty knife and an adhesive-removing compound to get old stickers off the inside of the windshield. Then use glass cleaner and a microfiber towel to avoid streaks and residue. Spray the cleaner onto the towel to keep the chemicals from running onto the rest of the interior. Some solutions will actually destroy the tint on windows, so check the bottle, and maybe even with the original tint installers, to make sure your spray is safe.

Dash and Console: Vacuum first, then run over large surfaces with a damp microfiber cloth. Apply vinyl protectant to guard against cracking and fading from sun exposure. The console and air vents are obnoxious to clean, but doing so is important. Get what you can with a vacuum, then spray some compressed air on them. Navigate small spaces with cotton swabs in a cloth sprayed with all-purpose cleaner. Do the same for the vinyl door panels.

Seats: Clean up spills ASAP to avoid permanent stains. Next, vacuum again (told you to keep it handy!). If your interior is leather, you’ll want a special cleaning kit that protects the material from fading, cracking and discoloration. Vinyl is super easy to care for with a damp cloth or damp sponge brush to reach crevices. For fabric interiors, you’ll need to use carpet or upholstery cleaner, being careful not to use too much. Leaving surfaces damp for extended periods invites mold and mildew in. To combat this, sprinkle a light layer of baking soda on the seats to vacuum up after 30 to 60 minutes. The powder absorbs both moisture and odor.

Floorboards and Mats: Always shake mats outside first to remove excess dirt, then vacuum again. Clean the mats outside and leave them to dry in the sun. If you have plastic mats use soap and water. Taking care of cloth mats is also pretty straightforward with a bit of carpet cleaner and scrubbing. For any upholstery on the floor, a carpet cleaning machine works wonders. Just remember to keep moisture to a minimum.

Stank: If you’ve accidentally introduced moisture, keep mildew at bay by drying spills immediately and parking somewhere with the windows down on a sunny day. Cleaning or changing the cabin air filter regularly can also remove mystery smells. If you like the scent of coffee, throw a sachet or two of dry grounds completely sealed in a paper filter under the seats.

Most importantly, do no harm. Make sure the chemicals you use are compatible with the surfaces you’re using them on. Having a variety of rags, towels, brushes and vacuum add-ons is a must if you want to clean like a pro. Be patient and detail-oriented, and your interior will look like new in no time.

Check out all the interior products available on NAPA Online or trust one of our 16,000 NAPA AutoCare locations for routine maintenance and repairs. For more information on car interior cleaning tips, chat with a knowledgeable expert at your local NAPA AUTO PARTS store.

Photos courtesy of Blair Lampe.

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