NAPA Know How: Which Is Safest for Your Car?NAPA Know How Blog

/in , , , , , , , , , /by

[ad_1]

Have you had the internal debate water vs. antifreeze for your car’s cooling system? Depending on where you live, the choice may have already been made for you by the weather you’re forced to deal with. Cold winters mean antifreeze is necessary to keep your engine from icing up internally. In the summer months, however, and in warmer climates, it’s not always so clear cut.

Different Boiling Points

The water in your car’s cooling system is charged with maintaining a steady operating temperature that hovers within the most efficient range for generating power and making efficient use of fuel. Water boils at 212 degrees Fahrenheit, but that’s only if it’s pure, distilled water that’s free from contaminants and minerals that can lower that boiling point substantially.

Most antifreeze is based on ethylene glycol, a form of alcohol that features a boiling point of 387 degrees Fahrenheit. Obviously, your engine won’t ever reach that temperature during normal operation, but the lower boiling point of water vs. antifreeze means that there’s a higher chance of steam forming inside your cooling system, which considerably reduces efficiency and could cause your engine temp to spike in an extreme situation.

Corrosion Is an Issue

Another issue when comparing water vs. antifreeze is corrosion. Remember those mineral deposits mentioned above? Over time, if you use tap water inside your car’s radiator the deposit build-up can seriously impact its operation. Mineral-free distilled water is a safer bet, but you still run into the problem of rust and corrosion forming on metal cooling system components. Antifreeze gets around this issue, as the ethylene glycol does not corrode most metals, providing a protective coating that will extend the life of your engine even during harsh, hot weather. It also contains additives that work specifically to prevent corrosion from taking place, and sometimes your engine might call for a specific type of antifreeze to make sure the necessary additives are used.

Mix It Up

What’s the best solution when deciding between water vs. antifreeze for your car’s cooling system? Try using both. A 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water is the most commonly used coolant in modern automobiles. The high boiling point of antifreeze plus its anti-corrosion additives are a good complement to water’s natural cooling capabilities (as long as its distilled water). Plus, there’s the added benefit of not having to worry about a sudden cold-snap freezing up your engine.

Choosing the right coolant for your car is crucial for its long-term health, with some information to help you make the right choice, you can safely purchase the right products for your vehicle.

Check out all the chemical products available on NAPA Online or trust one of our 17,000 NAPA AutoCare locations for routine maintenance and repairs. For more information on water vs. antifreeze, chat with a knowledgeable expert at your local NAPA AUTO PARTS store.

Photo courtesy of Morguefile.

[ad_2]

NAPA Know How Blog Source link

NAPA Know How: 4 Symptoms Of A Bad RadiatorNAPA Know How Blog

/in , , , , , , , , /by

[ad_1]

The symptoms of a bad radiator aren’t always obvious. Although the radiator is the largest, and most visible component in your vehicle’s cooling system, it is but one of several areas under your hood where coolant can get out of control and start to cause problems.

Suspicious that your radiator might be the culprit in your latest round of cooling woes? Check out these four tips that can help you spot a radiator that is on its way out.

1. Visible Coolant On the Radiator Itself

Your radiator should be bone dry at all times — as in, the coolant is completely encapsulated by the unit, with no leakage or spilling. Visible coolant is one of the symptoms of a bad radiator in almost every case. If you see coolant visible on the fins, that indicates that they have been perforated and that antifreeze is starting to ooze out. If you see it running down the sides, that could indicate a leak at the seams, or where the plastic cap meets the metal cooling body.

Leaks that are near the hoses, however, could be a sign that the connection isn’t tight enough, or that the hose has worn through. If you see coolant around the filler, then that may also be showing a cap that can no longer hold tight when the radiator is pressurized.

2. Bent or Mashed Fins

Your radiator’s fins are what allows for the heat exchange that cools down your engine’s antifreeze as it moves through it. If they become bent, or mashed together, then they can start to lose the efficiency necessary to completely cool your motor. If you discover a lot of damaged fins, it could be time for a new radiator.

3. Corrosion

Steel radiators are exposed to the same elements that can cause other parts of your vehicle to rust. A rusty radiator is vulnerable to perforation, poor sealing with its hoses, and general weakness while it is pressurized. If your radiator looks rusty, it’s worth having it inspected by a mechanic you trust before it fails.

4. Overheating

It might seem obvious, but one of the major symptoms of a bad radiator is your engine overheating. Although the heat gauge rising in your vehicle can have many causes, it’s not a bad idea to look to the radiator first and verify that none of the above issues are present, and that it is in good condition. Then you can move on to more difficult-to-diagnose issues like hoses, pinprick pressure leaks, connectors, water pumps and heater cores.

Check out all the heating and cooling products available on NAPA Online or trust one of our 17,000 NAPA AutoCare locations for routine maintenance and repairs. For more information on the symptoms of a bad radiator, chat with a knowledgeable expert at your local NAPA AUTO PARTS store.

Photo courtesy of Creative Commons.

[ad_2]

NAPA Know How Blog Source link

NAPA Know How: What Is HOAT Coolant? 4 Things You Need To KnowNAPA Know How Blog

/in , , , , , , , , , /by

 

Engines are complex machines with rapidly moving metal parts and small clearances. And as such, they generate a lot of heat. You already know that coolant is an integral part of keeping your engine from exploding, and you probably also know that you have multiple coolant options that aren’t interchangeable. But how do you know which is OK to use? Color is not a reliable indicator in choosing between OAT, IAT and HOAT, so you better choose wisely … and what is HOAT coolant anyway? Let’s dig in.

1. The Story on HOAT

Inorganic Acid Technology (IAT) Coolant was pretty much the original type of coolant and is still used in older vehicles. It lasts around 30,000 miles before it turns too acidic and needs to be changed. Organic Acid Technology (OAT) Coolant uses additives to increase its lifespan significantly — up to around 150,000 miles. Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT) Coolant is a hybrid of the two.

2. How HOAT Came to Life

You want your coolant to do a few things. Most importantly, it cools the engine, but remember it’s also passing through metal passageways and subject to vastly different operating temperatures, so it needs to deal with all of that. The original IAT is strongly anti-corrosive, but it needs to be changed regularly. OAT lasts much longer, but it doesn’t defend against corrosion as well. Ironically, simply mixing the two can have damaging corrosive effects, but the hybrid-engineered HOAT uses a chemical composition that keeps rust and buildup at bay, is effective at very low and high temperatures alike, and lasts five years and beyond.

3. Careful, HOAT Doesn’t Play Nice

Nope! On the surface, it seems like a hybrid between IAT and OAT would be compatible with either, but that’s not the case. They may share similar names, but the chemical recipe is different enough that manufacturers do not recommend mixing them. Doing so potentially limits your coolant’s effectiveness in doing its job and can greatly reduce the lifespan. And as mentioned earlier, it might actually gunk up the system. This is true even if you’ve drained the coolant from an engine — it’s not so easy as to just add a different type because traces of the old type remain and cling to passageways.

4. When to Use HOAT

As with most other questions about your car, check your owner’s manual. It should specify the coolant type. You may think the benefits of IAT, OAT or HOAT are what your vehicle needs, but it’s not a call you can easily make without cleaning out the entire cooling system (more than just a flush). So it’s really best to just stick with what was designed to support your engine and you will be fine.

Always wait for an engine to cool down before opening a radiator or coolant reservoir cap, as the system is under pressure and the coolant is scalding hot. And remember, contrary to popular belief, color should not be the determining factor for adding or mixing coolant because it is not standardized or indicative of chemical makeup. Always check with the manufacturer to make sure you’re adding what your engine needs.

 

NAPA Know How: Types of Brake Fluids ExplainedNAPA Know How Blog

/in , , , , , , , , , /by

[ad_1]

You can see your brakes behind your wheels and at first glance, it might not look like there are many types of brake fluids involved in the process. Take a closer look and you’ll find this is a hydraulic system that uses pressure to move brake fluid down to your brakes to stop your car.

If you run out of brake fluid, then the system simply will not work. No fluid means no pressure and that means no brakes. There’s still the emergency or parking brake as backup, but it’s not designed to stop your car the same way as the hydraulic system. Here’s what you need to know about the different types of brake fluids and when it may be time to change or refill those fluids.

Brake Fluid Basics

Not all types of brake fluids are the same. You’ll find a different type of fluid in an everyday sedan than you will in a performance car designed for the track. The key factor in determining which brake fluid to use is the fluid’s boiling point.

While you don’t often jam on the brakes during your morning commute or a typical day of driving, that’s exactly what you do on a track. Repeated hard braking heats up the brakes and it can cause the fluid to boil, resulting in a spongy brake feel and even complete brake failure.

That’s why it’s important to use the right brake fluid for your vehicle. The best way to be sure you have the right brake fluid in your car is to go with what’s in the owner’s manual. If you aren’t sure, don’t guess, because you should never mix different types of brake fluids.

Glycol or Silicone

The most common types of brake fluids are glycol-based and are labeled DOT 3 or DOT 4. The lower number indicates a lower boiling point, so these aren’t what you’ll find in a performance car, but perfectly acceptable for most driving conditions.

Silicone brake fluid is labeled DOT 5 and it has a higher boiling point. It’s also more expensive and is not recommended for every vehicle. It cannot be mixed with a glycol-based brake fluid. This makes it important to know what’s recommended for your vehicle before you start adding fresh fluid.

When to Refill

The brake fluid reservoir is in the engine compartment and it’s either white or opaque. There are markings on the outside that show when it’s full or low and you can see the fluid right through the container. If it’s low, then go ahead and add enough to meet the full line, but do not overfill the reservoir.

When to Replace

Brake fluid doesn’t last forever. If your old brake fluid looks dark, much like the color of used engine oil, then it’s probably time to have it changed. Even if it looks fine, it’s still a good idea to change your brake fluid at the manufacturer recommended intervals to ensure this crucial system works properly.

Brake fluid is a necessity if you want your vehicle to stop when you push the brakes. If you’re wondering what kind of brake fluid your car needs or when it needs to be changed, following your car’s owner’s manual is the best way to stay on top of your vehicle’s brake fluid.

Check out all the chemical products available on NAPA Online or trust one of our 17,000 NAPA AutoCare locations for routine maintenance and repairs. For more information on the different types of brake fluids, chat with a knowledgeable expert at your local NAPA AUTO PARTS store.

Photo courtesy of Nicole Wakelin.

[ad_2]

NAPA Know How Blog Source link

NAPA Know How: Do You Really Need To Change It?

/in , , , , , , , /by

Chances are the automatic transmission filter in your vehicle is something you rarely think about. In fact, it’s most likely not even come up when discussing basic maintenance with your mechanic. This might seem strange, given that most of the other filters on your car or truck have specific service intervals that are important to keep track of.

What’s the deal with this transmission filter? Do you really need to change it? And if not, why not?

Sealed vs. Open

There’s a crucial difference between an automatic transmission filter and every other filter in your vehicle: It’s part of a completely closed system. Your car’s air filter, gas filter, and oil filter are all in place to prevent contamination from the outside world because your engine and fuel tank are open at all times to ingest dirt and other gunk via the intake or fuel tank. Even your cabin filter is exposed to the environment and is responsible for filtering out leaves, dust and pollen.

An automatic transmission, on the other hand, is a completely closed system. Yes, there’s a vent designed to release any pressure that might build up inside of it as it heats up, but it doesn’t suck in any air during that process. In short, it’s blocked off from the outside world.

Two Different Jobs

You might see where this is going. While other filters in your car are busy screening out particles that could damage your engine or make you sneeze, and thus need to be regularly changed, the automatic transmission filter doesn’t fill the same role.

Why, then, is there a filter in the first place? It’s mostly in place to catch any leftovers from the manufacturing process. On occasion, flaws (read: bits of metal) from the transmission’s construction might end up circulating in the hydraulic fluid, and the filter catches those items and keeps them from doing any harm. It’s a very, very small amount of material, which means the filter will never get clogged.

Back in the Day

A few of you might be saying, “Hey, we used to change these filters!” This is true — there was once a time when it wasn’t uncommon to swap out a transmission filter as part of regular fluid servicing. In that era, however, to drain and fill a transmission correctly it was necessary to drop the pan and replace the gaskets at the same time, and so with the gearbox apart, the filter replacement was an easy add-on task (and a bit of a money-maker for garages). Nowadays, it’s possible to drain and fill a transmission without disassembling it, which means the filter replacement is significant extra work for no real benefit.

 

NAPA Know How: Changing Your Oil: The Essentials

/in , , , , , , , , , , , /by

[ad_1]

Changing your oil regularly is the cornerstone of good car maintenance. It’s not the cleanest job, but just about anyone can do it. So read up on some tips and tricks to make the job easier, then gather the following tools and supplies and get to it.

Safety First

Accessing your car’s oil drain plug and oil filter almost always requires getting under the vehicle. Putting safety first only requires a few simple items. Wearing the appropriate eye gear and gloves will ensure that debris stays out of your eyes and you don’t cut your hands on a jagged edge. If you are lucky you can access the plug and oil filter all four tires on the ground, otherwise you will to safely jack up the vehicle. If you aren’t comfortable working underneath your car, you can always take it to your local NAPA AutoCare experts.

Keep It Clean

Have at the ready a drain pan to catch the old oil, spill pads to catch what splatters out of the drain pan, and rags for your hands, tools, the drain plug … basically, have plenty of rags.

Tools

Check whether you need additional tools to remove anything covering the drain plug (most don’t). Have a ratchet and socket or wrench that perfectly fits the drain plug or you run the risk of rounding out the head of the bolt. Also, don’t use an impact gun to remove or install the plug, or you might strip the bolt or engine pan or both, leaving you with a much bigger repair.

Filter Extras

Always change your filter when you change your oil. So have at the ready a new filter (make sure it’s compatible with your engine), and filter wrench for getting the old one off. You don’t need to use the wrench to put it back on, heavy hand-tight will do! You’ll thank yourself at the next oil change.

Things to Make Your Life Easier

A funnel is strongly recommended. It will help you transfer old oil out of the pan and new oil into the engine. Additionally, a light source and creeper (or a panel of cardboard) will go a long way in making the process more comfortable. Don’t forget the gloves or else have some very good soap available.

Oil

You have many different choices here, so it’s important to evaluate your needs and consult your owner’s guide or a professional before deciding. Fully synthetic oil definitely has its advantages, but it’ll cost you. Factors such as the temperatures in your area, what you’re asking of your engine performance-wise, the age of your vehicle, manufacturer specifications and more will impact what the right choice is for you. Double check the amount of oil you need, so you don’t end up over or under filled.

A Plan

Make sure you know what happens when the oil change is done. You’ll need a receptacle with a secure lid so the oil doesn’t slosh out when transported. One trick is to pour the used engine oil from the pan into the now empty new oil bottles. This way, you can put lids back on them and take the used oil to your nearest auto store for disposal.

Totally easy, right? With an eye toward safety, a solid plan and a little preparation, changing your oil is one of the simplest yet most impactful things you can do for your car. And with most vehicles requiring at least two changes a year, it’s a handy skill to tick off the list.

Check out all the maintenance parts available on NAPA Online or trust one of our 16,000 NAPA AutoCare locations for routine maintenance and repairs. For more information on what you need to change your engine’s oil and filter, chat with a knowledgeable expert at your local NAPA AUTO PARTS store.

Photos courtesy of Blair Lampe.

[ad_2]

NAPA Know How Blog Source link